1800 1960 color dating fabric guide
Looks and acts like the same type of rayon made with other cellulose fibres. Batiste – A fine, soft, opaque plain tabby-weave fabric. These days, it can be made in cotton, wool, polyester or a blend. Bergére – low crowned, wide-brimmed hat, usually of straw, but sometimes made of other materials covered in silk. See also marmottes, pastoralism, Gainsborough hats & picture hats.
Bemberg or bemberg silk – a manufactured natural fibre of the rayon family, made from cellulose dissolved in an cuprammonium solution. Bizarre silks – European woven silks featuring large, asymmetrical, fantastical floral designs which were Oriental in inspiration, vivid colours, and an emphasis on the diagonal ‘serpentine line.’ mid 1690s to the 1720s Blonde lace – Originally a specific style of continuous bobbin lace made in France from natural, undyed (blonde) silk thread imported from China, later lace of any colour made in that style.
1780s-1830s Botany wool – an early name for merino wool produced in the Southern Hemisphere. A flower worn in a man’s jacket buttonhole, or pinned to his lapel. It can also refer to the fleece of fetal or newborn lambs from other species. 1720s-1900 See also osnaburg Brummell Bodice– men’s stays worn by fashionable dandies to achieve a nipped waist. 1810-1830 Buffon – a large, sheer neckerchief worn to cover the bust and fill in the neck, often starched to further exaggerate their fullness, and to assist in creating the desired pigeon breast effect, and very occasionally wired into position. 1850s-1930s, with periodic returns to fashion since then. Cabbage (or Carbage, or occasionally Garbage) – the name given to the bits of fabric left over from cutting out an item, or small scraps of fabric used as padding in clothes.
Buttonhole – a flower worn in a man’s jacket buttonhole, or pinned to his lapel. Accusations that tailors kept too much of the cabbage also gave it a usage as small private theft, or bits skimmed off the top.
Also applied to the fur of the ‘chinchilla rabbit’, which was bred to imitate real chinchilla fur in softness.
Chinchillas are now endangered, and hunting them is illegal. Colonial shoe – an 18th century inspired heeled shoe with a tongued vamp and an ornamental metal buckle on the front of the shoe. 1860s-1930s Corsage – The bodice of a garment, usually, but not exclusively, tight fitting, and usually, but not exclusively, applied to women’s bodices.
Late 16th-present Calamanco – a thin fabric of worsted wool yarn which could come in a number of weaves: plain, satin, damasked, and was even brocaded in floral, striped and checked designs. Calendering – the process of pressing fabric with hot rollers to give it a shiny, Calico – The name comes from Calicut, the European name for the Indian city of Kozhikode.
The surface was glazed or calendered (pressed through hot rollers). In modern use it is a simple, cheap equal weft and warp plain weave fabric in white, cream or unbleached cotton (UK, NZ, AU) or a plain tabby-weave cotton fabric with a small, all-over floral print (North America). Caracul lamb – an alternative spelling for karakul: the glossy, tightly curled fleece of the fetal or newborn karakul lamb. Carding – the process of brushing the wool for woolen fabric in two directions before weaving. Chesterfield coat – an overcoat with simple vertical seams, no side-back piece, and a velvet collar, usually in grey with black.
See also French heel, Louis/Louis XV heel, and Baby Louis heel.
Early 18th century – 1940s Bodice – Originally a boned, stiffed garment for the upper body, without sleeves (1530 -1700), then a boned, stiffened garment for the upper body with sleeves (to differentiate it from stays) (1660-1810), finally either the upper part of a dress, or a separate bodice worn with a matching skirt to give the effect of a continuous dress (1820-1900). Bodkin, also known as a lacing or threading needle (and occasionally a ballpoint needle), is a large needle with a very large eye, and a very blunt end, used for lacing corsets, threading ribbon through lace beading, and cord through casings.
Used from at least the 14th century to the present.
600-1,200 CE Art silk – the generic (and slightly euphemistic) name for rayons: fabrics made from processed cellulose. See also rayon, viscose, acetate, nitro silk and cuprammonium.
1880s – present Astrachan – alternative spelling for astrakhan.Introduced to European fashion in the 17th century, and particularly popular from 1860-1910. Chine & Chiné a la branche – fabric woven from yarns which have been pre-printed with the intended pattern, producing a characteristic soft, blurred pattern once the yarns are woven into a cloth. Chintz – The name comes from the Hindi “chint or “chitta” meaning “spotted”, referring to the speckled backgrounds on 17th and 18th century Indian equal weft and warp plain tabby weave cotton fabric block-printed in multicoloured floral designs. The modern term corsage for a small cluster of flowers is taken from this, as a shortening of ‘corsage bouquet’ (a bouquet to be worn on a corsage).